Sunday, February 22, 2009
Sausagefest
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Tartiflette is Bacon Crack
So it is...while waiting for my wife as she ran into the mall for a minute. I had my River Cottage Cookbook in the car. Flip it open, and there it is, Tartiflette. A rustic sounding dish made with bacon, onions, potatoes, cheese, and heavy cream. Although, I would like to imagine it being made 150 years ago in rural France I come to find out after a little research that it actually was created as a marketing ploy to sell cheese. Oh...well.
If you are the type to judge a book by its cover my poor dish would not garner even a taste. I over parboiled my red potatoes so my dish lost some texture and shape. My "gas-grill-as-oven" experiment failed so I was unable to get a bubbly golden cheese crust. Lucky for me I was able to look past appearance and enjoy a devilishly good dish.
8 oz. Quality bacon or pancetta diced
1 lb. Yukon Gold Potatoes (parboiled then sliced)
2 Small white onions sliced
2/3 Cup Heavy Cream
Finished dish may lack visual appeal(to be corrected) but damn if it wasn't tasty. Paired perfectly with a tannic but fruity 2005 Vacqueyras (Southern Rhone red blend).
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Bacon Part Deux
Home cured smoked bacon is pig candy! It took awhile, 7 days curing, 36 hours rinsed and resting to develop a pellicle , a tacky surface that allows the smoke to literally stick to the meat, and 3 hours hot smoking. But wow...just look at that picture. Bacon!
What went down...abbreviated version. I took the curing bacon out of the fridge, rinsed the belly well, and patted it dry. Back in the fridge for 36 hours uncovered. Saturday evening started up a little fire, soaked the apple wood chips, and smoked the belly for 3 hours.
The pork belly at the start of the smoking process.
3 hours @ 200 degrees = Pig candy!!!
Wednesday, February 4, 2009
Into the Black...Hole in the Wall
MachacadoIt all started a few months back when I sent my friend and co-worker J. Rizzo a Serious Eats link about a sun dried beef popular in Mexico. The first words out of his mouth..."Machacado con huevo ". Somehow in all my years in San Antonio I had never heard of this. My friend enlightened me on the basics. Machacado con huevo is shredded beef (Carne Seca) made with eggs and usually chopped tomatoes, onions, and peppers. A beef jerky taco! I had to try it.
J. Rizzo sent me the recon for Las Gueras and we made a plan to meet the next day before work. We entered the small establishment and took our seats. When the waitress brought our menus I couldn't believe my eyes. On the cover was a blown-up glamour shot of the owner and her two daughters. Anybody who thinks this highly of themselves must have confidence in the food they make. I know I do.
I ordered up two tacos machacado con huevo, one on corn and one on flour. Before any discussion on the merits of a taco filling the tortillas must be evaluated. Both the corn and and flour tortillas were home made and fresh. I expected a lot more dried beef, each taco had only flecks of beef throughout. They tasted great though. The suprisingly tender beef a supporting player to the eggs, onion, and pepper, added a depth of flavor and savory richness. That flavor reminded me of what fish sauce or sardines do when well integrated in a dish. A rich saltiness that you may not be able to pinpoint. Asians call it Umami, the 5th taste. On a side note, I normally prefer corn tortillas but the neutral flavor of the flour tortilla allowed the subtle flavor of the carne seca to shine through. A new favorite.
Monday, February 2, 2009
Belly Dancers....aka Pork Confit
pork fat (ideal) or lard that will cover meat during cooking
garlic
thyme
other spices…be creative!
I am using pork belly with a nice layer of fat. I score this fat well with a sharp knife. It will help the cure penetrate. I have cut my belly into mostly 3x3 pieces.
The Cure
Here is where the only rule comes in. You want to use sufficient salt. According to Charcuturie you want to use a min. of 1/3 oz. salt per pound of meat. You can be creative with spices but I am going to keep it simple.
My Cure
Salt and Pepper
Fresh thyme
2-3 cloves garlic
Coat the pork pieces all over with the rub, transfer to non-reactive container and cover. Let the pork cure for 24-36 hours.
Step 2: The cooking process. I am including the ideal oven based instructions but since my oven has been out for a week I had to improvise. My confit was cooked on the stove top for about 3 hours. I kept the fat at a constant 200 and it bubbled vigorously. If I could I would preheat oven to 190. Remove the curing pork from the fridge, rinse with cold water, pat dry. Slowly warm up the rendered pork fat or lard in a stove/oven safe pot. Place the pork pieces in the fat and ensure the are submerged. Add the garlic and a few sprigs of fresh thyme. Place in oven and cook for 7 hours. You are looking for a very subtle bubbling. Temperatures and times differ widely on published recipes so don't be afraid to research and adjust. Once the pork is done remove from oven and allow to cool to manageable temp.. The pork could be sauteed up in a hot pan immediately but will only get better with storage and aging.
Step 3: Storage
Once the pork has cooled transfer the pieces to lidded containers. Pour the reserved fat over the pork to cover. Avoid pouring any non-fat liquids (they will have accumulated at the bottom of the pot). Refrigerate until ready to use. I promise a tasting report….patience.
